Garand problems

Really? No one can help? Has anyone had this problem with their Garand or other GBB?

Shifty,
Firstly, yes a tiny blob of loctite will prevent your screws from working loose. But.....only a pinhead sized blob.......too much and the screwheads will round off the next time you try to remove them.
Regarding your hammer problem, I am afraid your picture is so out of focus I cannot see the components clearly so cannot help. But from your description of the problem I don't think it is a weak hammer spring..
Pete.

Thanks Pete. I am now having issues with reinserting the trigger to the trigger mech. The trigger keeps slipping out of the hammer spring housing.Can anyone give me a good way?
Cheers in advance,
Shifty
On another note- Pete, I was looking through the old posts on the US forum and you said in your M2 review you would make a custom tightbore out of precision 8mm tubing. Did that happen?

Shifty,
I can't help with your trigger problem at this distance, sorry. If I had the unit in front of me I am sure I could sort it for you. Do you live anywhere near me in Shropshire.?
The trigger mech is fairly complex because of what it has to do. It has to operate 2 gas rods ( one for firing the bb and one for blowback) it also has to operate the clip eject mechanism. Incidentaly, never leave a clip in the action when the rifle is stored away as this will quickly weaken the ejector spring.
On the subject of the 8mm barrel, yes I successfully made tightbore inner barrels for both my m1 carbine and m1 garand. B&Q do 8mm brass tube for about £3.25 per metre, that is what I used. They were a great improvement over the originals with their stupid ld2 hop , which ruined accuracy.
Pete.

Hehe no sorry, I live in the United States. Don't think that'd work. Guess I'll need to just use a vise while manually keeping the pieces aligned. Thanks flattrajectory.

Ah, I guess not. Is there not a guide or anyone willing to help you on the American ww2 airsoft forum...?
I am sure there were many more Marushin Garands sold over there than here in the UK.
Also, re. My 8mm inner barrel ......I guess you don't have B&Q hardware stores over there, but maybe shops that sell r/ c model aircraft would sell 8mm i.d. brass tubing.
Regards,
Pete.

There are plenty of guides, but none focus on the trigger mechanism. Most are about the bolt & stuff. How much of an accuracy increase should I expect? I have the US version without the LD2 system.

I got groups that shrank by at least 50%. I could hit a coke can at 17 yards 9/ 10 after fitting the new barrel and using .40grn or .45 grn bbs and Abbey Ultra gas which is 10% softer than green gas. I could hit a cereal packet 10/10 at 25 yards.
You do not need the hop near the muzzle . That is the LD 2 hop. No other airsoft rifles use 2 hops do they. ?
Take a handfull of bb's with you when you go to choose a brass tube, then you can pop a bb in the tube and hold it up to the light so you can see how good a fit it is. Choose a tube that is straight and that the bb rolls smoothly down. You don't want the tube too tight or you will get jams, but you don't want one too loose either.
Pete.

Can it be stainless steel? I'm having issues finding brass.

Yes, absolutely. In fact ss is probably better. All you have to do with the tube is cut it to length. Cut or file out the notch for the hop rubber at the breech end and de burr the edges. You do not need the notch at the muzzle end. I can't remember but you may need a groove cut around the circumference for a circlip at the breech end. Just copy what the original barrel has at the breech end but leave the muzzle end plain. Hope that helps.
Pete.

Thanks, it does help. Can I do it at home or should I take it to a machine shop?

Well you should be able to do this at home, as I did, but obviously it is entirely dependant on your skills and tooling. As long as you are not a complete 'klutz' , you should be fine.
Pete.