Heavier BBs do take more energy but mostly from gas guns. The pellet stays in the barrel for a bit longer and can absorb more of a push. There is a bit about that on this site:
http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/
Kitwhore files: S&S Lee Enfield No. 4, AGM Sten Mk. II, Tanaka Kar 98k, WE Luger P08
Wishlist: AGM Stg44, possible LE No. 4 gas project
Heavier BBs do take more energy but mostly from gas guns. The pellet stays in the barrel for a bit longer and can absorb more of a push.
This works under the assumption that the pellet is still accelerating by the time it reaches the tip of the barrel, which only really happens with really short barrels (as far as I understand, and as shown by the redwolf test with the 230mm barrel). Your standard AK barrel of 455mm will have absorbed most of the expanding gas by the time the pellet is at/near the tip of the barrel, hence the rule-of-thumb that the energy stays constant* regardless of BB weight.
An interesting read on this subject:
http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/01-c-01.htm
Kitwhore files: S&S Lee Enfield No. 4, AGM Sten Mk. II, Tanaka Kar 98k, WE Luger P08
Wishlist: AGM Stg44, possible LE No. 4 gas project
Review of the upgraded rifles upcoming when we get the time 
The final review of the upgraded rifles has now been uploaded. To summarise: They are now awesome, but they have taken a hell of a lot of work to get that way!
glad you got em working well, have you found a gas that will give 350 fps or are you going to use them as sniper rifles.
armoury
m1a1 Thompson,sten mk2,mp40,stg44,sterling,mk2 bren gun,lee Enfield no4 mk1,Mauser Kar98, Walther ppk,smith and Weston m10 and Mauser m712
Give me a big enough hammer and a place to stand and I could fix the world.
i'll kill a man in a fair fight or if i think he's going to start a fair fight or over a woman or.......
a problem shared is a problem halved ,but an advantage shared is no advantage at all
if a job's not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well
glad you got em working well, have you found a gas that will give 350 fps or are you going to use them as sniper rifles.
Cheers 
The plan is to use them as sniper rifles, however if we wanted to reduce the fps I'd just make up a washer to fit beneath the magazine nozzle to restrict the flow
Just received mine today, and am facing two problems:
- Magazine has a slow leak. How did you guys solve that issue?
- The butt is screwed to the receiver via a long allen key screw; however, since this screw runs through the length of the butt, the matching allen key wrench will have to be something like 30cm long. I do not have anything like this available, and no - the box did not contain one. Gun was shipped in two pieces to comply with SA post office regulations.
Just received mine today, and am facing two problems:
- Magazine has a slow leak. How did you guys solve that issue?
- The butt is screwed to the receiver via a long allen key screw; however, since this screw runs through the length of the butt, the matching allen key wrench will have to be something like 30cm long. I do not have anything like this available, and no - the box did not contain one. Gun was shipped in two pieces to comply with SA post office regulations.
do you have a friend who's a mechanic ? you can get allen socket's for socket set's , it's what i'd use , an allen socket on an extension and a ratchet spanner .if you don't know a mechanic then you could either buy a cheap ratchet spanner socket set or offer a mechanic a bit of cash in hand to fit it for you.
armoury
m1a1 Thompson,sten mk2,mp40,stg44,sterling,mk2 bren gun,lee Enfield no4 mk1,Mauser Kar98, Walther ppk,smith and Weston m10 and Mauser m712
Give me a big enough hammer and a place to stand and I could fix the world.
i'll kill a man in a fair fight or if i think he's going to start a fair fight or over a woman or.......
a problem shared is a problem halved ,but an advantage shared is no advantage at all
if a job's not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well
Just received mine today, and am facing two problems:
- Magazine has a slow leak. How did you guys solve that issue?
- The butt is screwed to the receiver via a long allen key screw; however, since this screw runs through the length of the butt, the matching allen key wrench will have to be something like 30cm long. I do not have anything like this available, and no - the box did not contain one. Gun was shipped in two pieces to comply with SA post office regulations.
Hi askhati, as Dadio suggested the best way of removing the stock is to use the hex attachment on a socket set, something like this:
As for the magazine, this is something we are still having some issues with. The first thing is to find out where the leak is from - try submerging it in soapy water or similar to find out. Sometimes the fill valves leak due to the little pipe becoming misaligned, my way of fixing this was to pack it out with PTFE. Also sometimes the release valve leaks- take it out, greaseoil it up and see if that helps. Sometimes the O-rings can become misaligned as well, so that's worth looking out for. The most common place for it to leak is between the two halves of the magazine proper- take out the two screws and the two roll pins, then carefully lever it apart. You can try to find a new O-ring for it, but we've had no luck so far. Again the best results we have had involve smothering it with grease, but the next time we have them apart we're going to try using a gasket sealant compound (Hylomar) and see how it goes.
Hopefully that lot is helpful and you get to enjoy your SMLE- I have to say I'm loving mine at the moment!
Of the three valves on the magazine - fill valve at the back, plunger valve in the middle, release valve at the front - it appears to be the plunger that leaks. Going to treat it with silicone grease/lube and plumber tape to see whether it helps.
I'm getting quite the reaction from the airsoft guys here about the rifle - my SMLE is the first in the country, and I actually play a German Jaeger... 
(MP28 and K98 springer)
Took out the fill- and plunger valves, covered the threads in plumber tape and silicone grease, then reinserted them. The spit test now shows no leaks from those two vents - but the mag still leaks. Going to write Evike and ask for a replacement, this is bloody ridiculous.
Also, the o-ring that sits in the bottom of the bolt (between the mag's gas release nozzle and the gas vent that propels the BB down the barrel) was so corroded by the oil that was used to lube the bolt, it fragmented into a hundred liquorice-like fragments after about the tenth time I cycled the bolt. Bolt is lubed to the n-th degree, cycles like a dream - but all the rubbers and o-rings are shot.
It's no consolation but mine (arrived a few days ago) is the same. The mag has a slight leak that I think I will be able to sort out but the o ring in the bolt fragmented very quickly. I will be replacing it with some 8mm silicone tube. This can be cut to length and then 'fixed' in place with silicone sealant. I have found it to be more forgiving than rubber.
The nose cap was glued on too. I heated this over a stove to soften the glue and remove. Despite the issues, I am hoping to get this firing nicely once a team mate has performed his magic on the wood work for me.
My mag was leaking from the joint between the main reservoir and the top section. Removing the two drift pins and two Allen screws will allow the mag to be opened up. There are two large 'O' rings that attempt to seal the mag. I cleaned off the oil that seems to be everywhere and applied a liberal coating of instant gasket to the recesses for the 'O' rings. I fitted the 'O' rings and then added more instant gasket over the top and added a layer in the space between to two 'O' rings. This seems to have repaired the leak.
I now need to sort the bolt seal. I have some 10mm silicone tube on the way that I will use to make a shed load of seals.
When you say the nose cap was glued on, what exactly do you mean there? Are you referring to the orange paint that Evike puts on their rifles?
Haven't taken my magazine apart into the top/bottom parts, will have a look tonight. Suspect that might be the issue.
A friend is stripping and refinishing the woodwork for me so I needed to remove all of the metalwork. The nose piece was stuck fast. Heating over a flame softened the glue allowing it to be removed. I will strip the orange paint and repaint the muzzle this weekend.
That's the same way we removed ours - a gentle heat will warm up the glue to the point it will release and can then be scraped off.
BTW a original nose cap will fit, just, as long as you bore out the hole for the barrel a bit larger.
The bolt seal on mine also went, but because it fell out during use and got ripped as I worked the bolt. I'm also using silicon hose, although in my case it's what I had lying around in the workshop!
The bolt seal on mine also went, but because it fell out during use and got ripped as I worked the bolt.
Odd feeling of deja vu...
Tried to take apart the magazine last night, and got the two pins knocked out - but then my allen key collection, in its ENTIRETY, went missing. Have to go and buy more today before I can finish the take-down. Bloody gremlins.
Managed to fix the magazine leak! (for now) Instead of going the gasket maker route, I took plumbing tape and wrapped it over the o-rings once they had been seated in grease, bulking up the whole o-ring "seal" area. Was a snug fit to get in, and the tape moved a bit during the seating, but it seems to be good for now.
Question on the reservoir: how many shots do you guys get on a fill? I'm thinking my operating environment is probably a bit different - 1,600m elevation, 29C ambient temperature - but I'm curious to know regardless.
Well with no leakage (a rare occurrence!) I would say about fifty shots or so- not entirely sure to be quite honest!
