[Sticky] K98 Springer Projects

side by side with my own kar98 (all dboys externally)in the fore ground as comparisom.


also made up a front site shroud as it was missing from the dboys doner gun,just dont tell me you have it at home Steve.its a little larger and i left 2mm of tube at the end uncut to make it a tighter more secure fit as its just mild steel not spring steel.

sight mounted, comparison with mine being lower.

finally found a finish that looks better on the bolt handle,simply tried some 1500 grit wet and dry just to take the shine off the nickel without going through to the copper layer.just got to get Cheeky Chappy's ok on it, couldn't get a good photo as the bolt has had so many different types of treatment its like a patchwork quilt .it just takes the shine and brown tint off and gives a slightly matt finish.

i cut off the bolt catch and fitted and extended the breech hole to correct length and shape,will cut the stripper clip slot tomorrow and probably fit the handle.after that its just a few odds-n-sods to finish up .all show my dboys as comparison at bottom.




photos also show the re-finishing on the bolt on my dboys,simply rubbed down very lightly with 1500 grit wet n dry to take the shine off and used liver of sulphur to silver up any areas where the copper showed .

bolt handle fitted,safety still works to stop cocking but not to stop trigger pulling, has the spring de-taunts as per the original dboys so has a nice feel clicking into place when lifting the cocking handle,cut them a lot deeper and lowered the land between to act as a stop to the bolt handle.
you can also see from the pictures the colour difference in the bolt handles between mine that's been rubbed down lightly (darker wood) and the dboys original colour on Steve's.hops now all fitted and working in the standard vsr way.

Oooooo lovely stuff

all the machining is now done,i cut the stripper clip groove and made the collar to go round the front of the breech to increase the width and step down to the barrel ,painted all the black bits and stripped and blued the barrel,really pleased with the barrel it never ceases to amaze me the nice blue you can get on nice ally rather than the sooty black you get with pot metal.only the woodwork left to do now and she's finished.
mine above for comparison



also filed down the back of the breech behind the stripper groove where it steps down.

bolt blacked before and after

Lovely work sir.

Can i just inquire what you are using to paint / chemically black the guns you work on. Have a CYMA M14 and can't get a finish I like. Have used Krylon paint but it seems to flake off too easy.

Stu

Looks great.
How have attached the rear of the bolt/firing pin to prevent it from spinning around? That's the last bit I'm sorting on mine and I'm not committing to anything until I've thought it through

may sound naff but i haven't found any better paint than halfords car paint,i this case matt black witch comes out more satin than matt,the alloy parts i used birchwood casey aluminium black then hot spot fire and grate polish.not all the ally parts will come out nice,if its not good aluminium but some alloy or pot metal then you get a sooty black that rubs off easily and also method of applying is very important,for the bolt and barrel i applied the chemicals while in a lath and spinning witch is not an option for most.one thing you can do with the ally black to make it more durable is use a clear or matt lacquer over the top.
i was lucky with this clone that the rod at the back of the bolt to mount the handle was just a little too big to fit through the threaded inner of the block behind the handle and the rod had a flat area to stop rotation of the original handle on the vrs, so i simply dremmeled out the threaded section to match leaving an untouched area where the flat part of the rod sits,that made a secure fit but did not stop the handle itself turning beyond where it clicked for position so the little indents where the spring ball ended rod sits in had to be cut much deeper so the sprung rod could not escape the indent at all then file down the metal slightly between the indents so it can move again but only between the two indents and not beyond.
the picture shows the one i made compared to the original,i made up a solid sleeve to go under the handle but the same could as easily be done to the original part.

then and you can see this in the same picture ,i cut a portion off the threaded part that the other spring for the rear most part to sit on and screwed it into its original position.all really hard to explain without knowing the proper names for anything so i hope the pictures help.



alternatively if the rod at the back of you'r bolt is too small there is another way.use the whole handle and safety catch assembly as standard except cutting off the spring guide ,cut the rod behind the bolt down to fit inside the handle,remove the spindle that holds the safety assembly together with the two grub screws and replace it with a screw that fits the thread in the rod behind the bolt(thread may need cutting deeper as a section is to be removed).assemble and re fit the grub screw's tightly .

finished at last,hope you like it Steve. comparison with mine above,oh last little detail was to fit the little bar that runs along the bolt,not sure what its called,i painted a metallic grey that looks better in the flesh(did the same to mine as the dboys was just black plastic),its just glued in and does not move but is in the closed bolt position.rubbed down and re stained to as close as i could get to mine,its not oiled but varnished,more or less dry brushed the varnish on then 1500 grit wet n dry to take the shine off.

That looks fantastic. Great job Gav. Can't wait to put it to some good use soon. Hopefully I will be able to make it to the Bastogne Breakout - 2/3/4th Nov game. I don't know if you are up for that one

I'll give you a call soon. The gun really does look sweet.

Thanks mate,
Steve.

Yes, a very nice job. I'm a bit jealous

Cheers
Martin

finally got round to giving my k98 a bit of cosmetic love, not fully finished(is anything) still need to do the front sight, trigger guard, barrel bands and safety cluster.




took half the day with paint stripper wet n dry tcut and ally black, quite pleased with the results .

Looks cracking mate

Work is progressing well on my springer conversion, Its firing at the moment at 425fps and I wish to downgrade it to 350. What size spring should I be looking at to achieve this?

An M100 spring should be 100meters per second which is 328 feet per second, but the actual output once its in the gun will vary depending on factors such as any upgrades to the barrel or hop or how gas tight the seals are etc...

I'd say go for a 110. The 100 seems to be designed for the stock VSR FPS of 280/90 rather than 328 you might expect. I have a 100 in my K98 and even with an upgraded hop & barrel and decent seals it still only fires at 315fps. You may be ok with 100 but I plan to try a 110. It just requires an order from the far east as no one in the UK seems to stock them.

Anyone know if there is a spring K98 bolt that will fit a Marushin K98?

Greetings from Finland!
First, I have to thank you all about this topic it have been very helpfull. I have planned to start this project long time and now at last, start it. And here is what I have done:










In a last photo I have miss trilling accident. thanks for woodfiller it can repaired. And as you can see my mag goes quite deep in the stock. I dont know why it happens but better this way I think. Now i could clue some woodlaminate bottom of mag so it looks like part of stock.

I am little worried about cluejoints could them brake off? I used 2K clear epox. Next thing is plannig the triggerguard in the bottom somehow. Then painting and varnish the stock. That all folks. Thanks again and lets hope that i get this project to the ready! I will post them some time. I hope