Externals
The stock, magazine, trigger guard, front and back sights plus barrel bands are all original. The stocks benefit from a light sanding to clean them up and a liberal dose of linseed oil.
The receiver is a custom casting, in bronze I think, and is painted satin black. The paint wears off in places as you will see in the pictures below and will need regular touching up.
Other than the cylinder being silver it looks pretty bang on and our ones have been used by PBI at a re-enactment event so no worries about accuracy here. You can of course change out the cylinder - see Upgrading below.
Each one has a unique number stamped into the receiver (the date, mine is 26.0108) plus "No.4 Mk1 S&S" on the side and "Enfield 1943 WR032003" along with a crown symbol on the left above the trigger guard.
Overall it's very solid and robust, Anne and I each have one and we've never experienced any wobbles or loose bits (on the rifles anyway).
Here's what you get -
Close up views of the receiver -
Purists might note that the amount the magazine sticks out below the trigger guard may or may not be right. It varies gun to gun.
and the business end -
As far as I know the front sight can't be adjusted for windage, or at least, I don't know how to.
Three quarter views of the receiver -
The rear "combat" sight is also fixed, but the flip up sight is fun -
Note there is no working safety and the bits on the back of the bolt are for show only.
One foible of the gun is that you're best not running around with it cocked. Not just because it might go off unexpectedly, but also once it's cocked there's no way to stop the cylinder coming backwards accidentally and hence double feeding another bb into the chamber when you push it forward again for firing.
SHOOTING
Ours both chrono'd at about 390 to 400 fps with 0.2g bbs. The magazine takes about 25 bbs. If you fill it right up you need to cock it to get the magazine in.
The mag sits flush with the stock. In fact it can be quite fiddly to get out in the heat of battle so I have attached little twine loops to the bottom of mine (not pictured).
The hop is adjustable with an allen key (supplied) via the magwell, under the nozzle. You have to cock it to move the cylinder back and get the nozzle out of the way.
I use 0.28g bbs and it is pretty consistent. I can hit a tin can every time at 15m and was getting hits at 50m at Huskey.
It's not particularly relevant but here're the results of a quick back garden test at 12m range.
10 rounds rapid!
Results.
Disassembly and Upgrading coming soon.........
Good photos and nice gun Warren 
keep them comming guns & review.
Free speech is expensive these days!
One foible of the gun is that you're best not running around with it cocked. Not just because it might go off unexpectedly, but also once it's cocked there's no way to stop the cylinder coming backwards accidentally and hence double feeding another bb into the chamber when you push it forward again for firing.
Does this mean it cocks on opening?
Is the cylinder lined, or is the silver part the same piece of metal as the bore?
If the cylinder is lined, a locking bar could be added, like on the real bolts.
No, the cylinder isn't lined. I'll get some internal pics up shortly.
I'm not sure what you mean by cocking on opening. It cocks when you pull the bolt handle back far enough. You then push the cylinder back into place like any bolt action. What I was trying to describe is, once you've pulled it back, cocked it and pushed it back forward ready for firing, if you leave it cocked there is nothing (the spring tension is gone - it's already cocked) to stop the cylinder and bolt handle sliding backwards unintentionally, especially if you keep it well lubed, like me.
Other bolt actions I think have a notch in the receiver that the bolt handle sits in to prevent any unwanted sliding backwards and forwards.
Real K98s and Springfields cock on opening - the spring pressure is on during the pull open.
Lee-Enfields cock on closing - the spring pressure is on during the closing push. What holds them closed is the bars on the bolt, that's why there's no notch at the back. That, combined with the 60 degree turn, rather than 90, contributes to their speed of operation. They're also safer - as nothing is cocked when the bolt is opened, pushing the bolt forward with the trigger pulled doesn't cock or fire the gun.
From your description, these cock on opening. If it's possible to add a bar to emulate the lee bolt, that'd stop it falling out and hold it forward where it should be. However, I'm not sure that bolt could be used like that
The trick is just to carry it barrel down when cocked... easy really. I very rarely have a problem as a result.
If you're aiming uphill does the cocking lever fall out or smack you in the chops?
no 
Lol it's not a massive problem and it's not that floppy, just something that happened to me unexpectedly on a couple of occasions when I was inexperienced with using it.
Hi
Nice, where can i get one and how much? 
Hi
Nice, where can i get one and how much?
You get them from Warren @ scoot and shoot. He's got a sub-forum on the CiA forum.
The mag sits flush with the stock. In fact it can be quite fiddly to get out in the heat of battle so I have attached little twine loops to the bottom of mine
Having just received one of these beauties, and suffering from lack of nails to pull the blighters out, could you elaborate on your solution, please - a pic would be handy.
Thanks
Sorry for delay, I've only just seen this.
I cut little loops of string and just attached them to the bottom of each mag by wrapping electrical tape around the mag a couple of times. The knot in the string prevents it being pulled out.
I'll sort out a picture shortly.
This is how I did it on my Mosin Nagant mags.
Piece of webbing (thinner the better) wrap it around your finger to get size, glue onto bottom of mag
Yep, that's pretty much what I did, except I used black tape wrapped around the whole mag rather than just glueing the loop on.
