G&G K98 (G980) testing

Nice. Could you post up the contact details you used for G&G please and also the cost?

Just took the email off their website. This is the one i used to order the clips: sales11@guay2.com. I can't seem to find the email where they said how much they were...i think USD12? Not sure anymore. I paid via paypal and they shipped it via EMS.

Chommers, ill do a tanaka test when i can, probably this weekend

Ill use green gas, .20 bbs and fire a full load of gas and record every shot in the chrono

Chommers, ill do a tanaka test when i can, probably this weekend
Ill use green gas, .20 bbs and fire a full load of gas and record every shot in the chrono

weekend so finally get to take the g&g k98 out of the box, so what do i think

range is very poor, accuracy is "iffy" all three mags are venting. only got 40 rounds out of 3 cylinders, am i doing something wrong, am i over toghtening the threaded cap for the cylinders???????.
do i have a bad batch?

ive adjusted the hop up and still the range is poor, or am i expecting to much, as a "nearly" sniper rifle i expected alot more - especially as i bought a asg m14 and its brillant, clearly 50 plus metres easily and accuracy is excellent and at only £159 compared to the £359 for the k98 im feeling a bit hard done by. any advise???

Venting won't be due to over-tightening the cap - that just pushes the neck of the bulb over the piercer and onto the silcone rubber seal (so just screw in firmly - no need to tighten as hard as possible.

Check the rubber O seal on the bottom of the bolt that marries with the brass sprung collar on the mag. Mine was inserted into the bolt the wrong way around and it got dragged out of position as the bolt was cycled. Also check the mag brass collars are in position and move/float correctly as it is possible to catch them when you put the 'clip' in place.

thanks MR CW, checked all of the above all as they should be - when loading the cylinder into the mag and tightening the tapped cap there is the point when the piercer breaks the seal on the cylinder, at this point there is a loud sound of gas venting and a constant sound of gas there after, when placing the mag into the rifle and cocking everything sounds fine other than the sound of gas, now quieter. When fired the BB goes about fifteen feet, if that, then every 3 or fourth shot travels 60 feet and then back to 15 feet - then the BB just falls, literally from the barrel.

there is a blue seal around the piercer within the mag, but its as if all the pressure in the cylinder is just venting....very confused. might be worth waiting for Bologne and letting someone used to the k98 take a look. its probably something quite simple, its just got me flumaxed

So where is the CO2 venting from? Try the cycle tyre soapy water method if it isn't clear. If it is from the bulb plug then the bulb isn't sealing properly against the blue seal. If it is from the pin or the pin plug them try tightening it with circlip pliers. If it is from the brass collar then the internal valve isn't seated/sealing properly. If you have circlip pliers then withdraw the plug and check the valve assembly - I'll post up pics on Monday of what the parts are (which are self-explanatory but at least you can see if something is missing).

The confusing thing is all three mags are venting which points to massive production problems, incompatible CO2 bulbs or user error. I'd guess the latter two are more likely. When you tighten up the plug then should be a psssh then nothing. Maybe you aren't tightening the plug enough?

is this fault on a brand new gun? is it possible that the co2 bulbs are a poor fit and another brand would work better? it wont fire properly with a big leak so fixing the leak is probably going to fix all,if its brand new just take it back and get the shop to fix it before tampering with it at all or they might think you broke it.

I still find it amazing that manufacturers are spending time and effort on R+D, to bring out an expensive and over technical rifle, when they have a simple reliable springer mechanism such as the VSR, which could be adapted fairly simply to any number of period bolt action rifles.
The same goes for the much awaited Garand when there are numerous M14 models which could be adapted fairly easily by manufacturers.

The venting appeared to be from the little catch on top which you pull back to clip in the ammo clip. I tried another bulb yesterday and it worked perfectly with no venting at all and the accuracy on 4 out of 5 shot was very good, i was actual using the sights and the BB followed a lovely and true path - with just 1 bb puling well to the right,as stated 1 in 5
.

so no idea what the issue was other than maybe a bad batch of bulbs?? - ill check a few more bulds and run 50 or 60 shots through them to see how i get on - cheers for the advise and help.

just glad its all working now,nothing like the disappointment of a new gun with a fault

Has anyone had any issues with the cocking hammer wearing down??

I really like the look/cost of the G&G but some of the reviews I've read mention the need to spend extra money to upgrade the cocking hammer to a steel version!

the first batch came with a crap ally hammer,the later ones have a steel one and the steel ones are free to owners of the original so no longer an issue.

A deffo for the Christmas list then

Looking at the g&g website it says on the online manual that you need to run around 200 rounds through to let the hop rubber bed in and to get the crap oil they use out. Just one to watch out for when testing it out the box.

Chommers, ill do a tanaka test when i can, probably this weekend
Ill use green gas, .20 bbs and fire a full load of gas and record every shot in the chrono

Did we get this done at all? Or did I just miss it?

Have you had it out for any winter action? How does the CO2 system behave then?

No, not had it out since it's last game in September - in fact it has been lying around at work waiting for me to get round to having another go at downgrading the mags. My first attempt added a grommet to the shaft of the internal valve that limit its movement and thus limits the volume of gas allowed through but I have now bought a box of assorted springs so I'll have a go at changing the spring instead.

Still, it doesn't stop me giving it a blast as-is to see what happens at 1 degree or below, so I shall do so. I'll repeat the table to see vorticity, velocity change over mag discharge and number of shots per bulb.

Not really a test but the CNC Hop unit done by Zeta Labs is now on offer at only $30.

http://www.airsoftpanda.com/product_info.php/products_id/2856

For that price any increase on range and accuracy will be a worth while investment. Also usable on the Tanaka and the cheaper clone by accuracy fire.

Stu