H Hop

When you buy a pack you get two of them. One white one and one black one.

If I'm right the softer white one is more effective in lower FPS guns than the harder black one.

I never use the black ones so I'm sure I'll have a few lying around in my garage.

I'll check tonight and if I find my black one kicking about I'll send you it.

Thanks.

Does the harder/softer thing mean they're not a "turnable" material?

Hmmmm .... d'you know I might actually have this all wrong after doing some quick googling!!! What a clown!

On the material

The difference is in the spacing of the nub. Which makes me thing the black and white colouring for identification purposes, and not anything to do with the hardness of the material used to make the nub.

The difference is that Black is narrower inside the H, and the White one is wider.

On which one goes with which FPS

Black is for lower power and shorter barrelled guns and White is for higher power, longer barrelled guns.

As for the specific barrel lengths and FPS ratings on deciding which one to install in which gun. Well who knows? I guestimated.

Anyway I'll still have a spare one that I can send you that you can keep and/or copy.

Thanks.
I thought they looked like moulded plastic.

PMed.

Handy info. I just ordered 5 sets!

very handy info! got 2 sets from rsov and was gonna fit them in a week or 2, nothing said n the packets about barrel length etc

My theory on the different shape is that the narrower-gapped one would make the hop lever more effective on a slower BB. The wider-gapped one would have less effect for use on faster BBs.

Considering the hop on my Thompson is right off and still getting some rise, I think I'd need a wide one for that.

they would be easily made on a lath out of acetile or nylon provideing you have a small enough parting tool, probably 1mm width would do to make the groove and the dimentions are exactly the same as a normal nub exept the slot whitch you could play with if your makeing your own .if you'v got the plastick and lath and tools i recon they would take about ten minuites to make ,far quicker than the delivery from china .haveing said that ive just ordered three sets for my next project and ive got all the stuff to make them to hand so maybe i should have taken my own advice. or maybe im just lazy and they are cheep.

Have you seen this:
http://shredderscs.proboards.com/index. ... &thread=33

Another twist on the same idea.

WRT tools: I have all but a fine parting tool. However, The London Model Engineering Exhibition is this coming weekend...

However, The London Model Engineering Exhibition is this coming weekend...

I was considering going too, but unfortunately so is GMA's next 'Cold War' era themed game.

I take a day off and go on the Friday - less crowd and less screaming kids...

All my AEGs have either the H-hop or the SCS. These give a load of improvement in range and accuracy, even more so with the SCS. Remember that you'll have to use hop rubbers without a pronounced hump inside for these to be more effective.

Would putting a normal one in rotated through 90 degrees work?

Would putting a normal one in rotated through 90 degrees work?

It could but the hump as well as the alignment strip at the bottom might distort the rubber..haven't really tried. If the hop rubber is stock, it'l be OK to use with the H-hop or SCS. If it's an aftermarket hop rubber (like madbull/guarder) check that the hump isn't too pronounced or else your custom hop nub won't be as effective, or worse, will give you over hop. If the hump is pronounced, invert the rubber, slide it unto the barrel, and shave the hump off with a dremel.

The one I'm planning to use right now is a TM hop rubber.

I'm concerned shaving it might affect its resilience where it contacts the BB.

What about cutting/shaving off the nub AND the alignment strip, then turning through 90 degrees?
That would remove the bulging, and give a smooth surface.

The TM hop rubber will work fine with the custom nubs without modification.