Cheers chaps, I`ll try and write something up although the way I built it was a bit wanky, would`ve been a lot easier making the stock in two parts and then gluing together and shaping afterwards.
Unfortunately I came unstuck trying to think of a way to make barrel bands, luckily my grandaughter had left her push bike here so I robbed one of the inner tubes and cut out a couple of slices....they worked perfectly 
Gubbins:
U got a pic shout of the entire stock showing how much cut out ect. also
Were did you get and how did you rig up the cocking mechanism. i got the m47 and fancy givving this a try . let me know slick
I had a run around the back garden with this (much to the consternation of the neighbours) and it has a flaw....the cocking mechanism.
The gun itself shoots fine but when you pull the cocking lever it twists the original cocking lever sideways which rubs against the inside of the stock. I`ve had to bond a thin piece of sheet steel in there to stop it taking slivers out of the wood.
Because of this twisting, it is very hard to cock (I had to place the shoulder stock against my leg in order to do this), and I`ve got the feeling that the cocking mechanism is the weakest link, and if used over even a days game would maybe break.
So as a practical skirmish gun its just not worth doing as you would need a back up. If you`ve got the materials to hand, are reasonably practical, I`d say have a go as it would be a cheap exercise....but if you want a skirmishable gun and have to buy the bits, don`t bother.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wouldn`t want people struggling through all the work thinking they will have a practical skirmish gun at the end of it. Possibly a more reliable project would be the trench gun conversion mentioned elsewhere on this forum 
Slick, I got the impression that the one the guy did on the US forum was OK, maybe it's worth contacting him to find out how he got over this problem.
Problems with the bolt aside. You've got a very nice looking M38 Carbine there.
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Slick, I got the impression that the one the guy did on the US forum was OK, maybe it's worth contacting him to find out how he got over this problem.
He did mention the bolt lever mechanism was liable to torqueing, its not too bad but I just feel its not going to be that reliable as a practical skirmish gun because of the bending and the force required to cock it.
I`ve just been outside and fired off about 40 shots, it requires quite an aggressive movement of the arm, forwards and backwards, compared to a normal bolt action.
It would be useful to have a bracket keeping the arm in a linear action as if not careful you can pull it upwards, so twisting it more.
I did enjoy firing it however, as I`ve been used to my MP40 and AK, so handling a normal bolt action rifle stock, felt pretty different. Reminded me of when I was a kid and had a bolt action, shell ejecting toy rifle as a Christmas present.
Once Warren has the bits in for his K98 conversion I`ll be getting one to go on my MP001, I like the idea of no battery worries and the simplicity of the bolt action design. 
my sig my sig
how you get it to work plz
See your post in Off Topic
dud whats the imentions for the wood for the gun?
ok i trying summit a little different.
wont be exact as it will have exposed clip but this is my design guide
i will post pidcs of how i get on
The first thing to do is strip the shotgun and make up the small wood parts 1-4. I glued them on with araldite 2 part epoxy. These parts are about the width of the magazine.
Next is the cocking handle 5, the arm is a bolt welded to the side of the handle and the ball on the end is one of those wooden beads from a car seat cover. When made, glue and screw 5 to part 4
The dimensions for the wood stock 10 and 8 are:
You`ll need 2 pieces 930x170x28. Those are approximate sizes.
Print out a few pics of the gun (in bits and complete) and use them to size things whilst you`re doing the work.
The pic below should help you mark out each piece of wood for the stock
Once you have the two stock halves cut, remove the strip at the top which will be the top handguard.
Lay the receiver against one half then the other and mark out the wood you need to remove. When cutting the right hand half remember to leave enough width for the cocking handle.
Next, cut a groove where the barrel will fit.
Once the wood is removed, place the two halves together and clamp, place the receiver into the stock to make sure it fits. When you feel its ok, glue the two halves together and clamp.
Next is to carve the stock and upper handguard 8 to shape.
The barrel 6 is made out of approximately 12mm od tube, the top sight 7 is a piece of the same mounted on a post. Depending on what type of tube you use, this will have to be welded or soldered. I placed a piece of 8mm id tube inside this to support the barrel of the shotty.
The cleaning rod is a piece of approx. 6 mm bar glued into a groove on the underside of the stock.
The barrel bands were made from sections of inner tube from a pushbike.
This guide is simplified but a lot of the cutting and shaping on the gun is best done by eye....hope this helps.
Lol 
And uh yeah...credit to Gryphon from the WW2AA boards for the exploded-view picture included above 
Slainte!
-G
Lead, Follow, or get the %$@#!! outta the way!!
Lol
And uh yeah...credit to Gryphon from the WW2AA boards for the exploded-view picture included above
Slainte!
-G
Please see post number 1 on this thread including link to Gryphons original post. I have already credited the man for his talents as have several other people on this forum.
I guess my bad then 
I always thought of credit is an on-going process, as some folks only read the tail-end of a thread- but your the boss 
...Maybe I'm being a tail-end
Lead, Follow, or get the %$@#!! outta the way!!
You usually are.....
Hey....I'm perfectly capable of making an a$$ out of myself without you coming over here to help jackass
Now get back on our side of the pond- you have work to do on the boards.... 
...Don't mind us- we're always like this
Lead, Follow, or get the %$@#!! outta the way!!
slick the only thing i am struggling with is the cocking mech.
were did u source the bar from and how are you attaching it because it will need to take a fair bit of pressure to cock the shotty mech.
...Don't mind us- we're always like this
slick the only thing I am struggling with is the cocking mech.
were did u source the bar from and how are you attaching it because it will need to take a fair bit of pressure to cock the shotty mech.
The cocking lever is a flat bar about 2-3mm thick, cut into an L shape. Its attached to the original cocking lever by a piece of wood (part 4) about 5-6mm in thickness (it needs to be thin enough to fit between the barrel and cocking lever lug on the receiver as it fits between these on the rearward cocking stroke). Each of the cocking levers has two holes drilled in it and the wood is glued and screwed to these. The wood acts as a spacer between the two bars.
this is what i thought you did.
is the wooden spacer strong enought.
hows yours holding out you used it much ?
Great guide, Slick!
Cheers
on this topic. does anyone have any idea were i could by a iron sight i tried ebay and the usual airsoft links. 