I've just taken delivery of some lipo batteries and deans connectors, (but not the battery charger which was out of stock but wasn't mentioned when they confirmed dispatch of my delivery on Monday, (thanks component shop 
) anyway I've removed the tamiya connection off my sten but I'm not sure how the wires are supposed to fit to the deans connectors as there are just 2 flat 'pins', (for the want of a better word), no crimp mechanism or holes to loop the wire through, I know they'll need to be soldered but I'm not convinced that just a solder joint is going to be strong enough, especially as the guy I work with who does most of the sections soldering has said that soldering onto gold doesn't produce a very good joint and can be difficult to achieve.
That's what needs to be done.
There's enough area there for the joint to be strong. I would suggest connecting the plug you're going to solder onto the gun wiring to a spare socket so that the pins don't misalign if you put in too much heat.
And don't forget about the heat shrink tubes!
You wouldn't believe how annoying it is to forget those!
How to SODER 
Remember to wipe your SODDERING iron 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tEBQC-qNE0
Free speech is expensive these days!
he makes it look sodding easy 
Remember that the socket goes on the battery. Plug on the gun.
And if you're changing the battery connector, only remove 1 wire at a time from the original connector, and fit/shrink the heatshrink on the first terminal before doing the second one, just to make sure you don't accidentally short it.
I did mine on Friday, before the video on 'soddering' 
was posted, I did them pretty much as the video shows and found it really easy, the only difference was that I flattened the wires before tinning them so that there was more of the wire in contact with the connectors blades when I soldered them
I don't know what there SODDERING problem is in the USA but many have it, so I found early this year when I was making radio sets.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAlyTXZGWeM
Free speech is expensive these days!
I'm not convinced that just a solder joint is going to be strong enough, especially as the guy I work with who does most of the sections soldering has said that soldering onto gold doesn't produce a very good joint and can be difficult to achieve.
They're very much strong enough... and far, far more reliable than those nasty crimp connectors in a tamiya plug.
I did mine on Friday, before the video on 'soddering'
I'd not thought of that myself. It should make the heat transfer quicker as well.
I'm not convinced that just a solder joint is going to be strong enough, especially as the guy I work with who does most of the sections soldering has said that soldering onto gold doesn't produce a very good joint and can be difficult to achieve.
They're very much strong enough... and far, far more reliable than those nasty crimp connectors in a tamiya plug.
Yes I would think the area you solder to may not be gold plated so the joint would be better than a crimp.
The Tamiya connector isn't good for current transfer, well many I see are not quality but that could be because they are a copy of the real thing and the tolerances not good.
When I use a crimp I like to solder as well.
Free speech is expensive these days!
I have previously managed to pull the wire from the metal plate it was soldered to on a deans connector. It was probably just crappy soldering on my part, but it made me aware that I should always hold onto the connector parts and not the wire when pulling apart a deans connector.
Just the same as with a tamiya. 
Providing that you dont pull on the battery wires to get it out, or twist you should be fine.
