Hello all! I've got a Tokyo Marui 1911 for Christmas and while it is a nice gun that shoots great, I'm a little disappointed with the look of it. It has a completely plastic slide that is obviously plastic and so I'm wondering what sort of paint I can use on it to make it look parkerized (or blued) and worn.
Can anyone give me some pointers on which paint to use?
Regards,
Ralph
How about replacing the slide with a metal one?
Easiest effect for worn blued metal is to drybrush a dark silver type paint over it. There's plenty of videos on the youtubes explaining how to do this. I'd advise you to practice it (alot) on something textured you're going to throw out first, while not a difficult thbing to do, gaining a feel for how much paint to leave on the brush is something that takes a few tries, very easy to use too much.
I've fired a bullet on every continent. Nearly hit someone, too.
I'll have a look for some of those videos and see how it goes. I did consider a metal slide but I'm worried about how it'll affect the gas efficiency of the gun and the rate of fire too.
Regards,
Ralph
Are you sure you have a TM? I quite like the finish on my one.
All the plastic and metal guns I've had (including two tones) I've done the same way:
1. remove/mask any bits you don't want painted or clogged up (typically wood handles, internals etc).
2. spray them black (I use either Games Workshop Chaos Black or Halfords Matt Black undercoat), acrylic or enamel based doesn't seem to matter. You may want to key the surface ever so slightly with wire wool or fine sandpaper first.
3. go over them with a very thin application of Zebo metal polish (or similar) - this is used for blacking victorian fire grates. It is essentially graphite embedded in boot polish. Once it is dry give it a good polish and bingo, a metal gun.
4. you may want to finish off with a light drybrush of metal (GW boltgun silver is decent as a highlight), but as the Zebo produces a smooth finish, either don't apply the polish to the raised edges or gently sand the raised edges before applying the drybrush or the paint won't stick.
Back when I used to build plastic kits of guns a long, long time ago, the recommendation was to go over the whole thing with a soft graphite pencil which usually came out looking OK. It is far easier to use the fire blacking though. Guns which are already painted I just go over with a good sand and some Zebo, I'm not competent or patient enough to strip them and blue them.
Cheers
Martin
"Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified" Helmuth von Moltke
Toys: AGM MP40, Cyma M1A1, TM M14/G43/SVT40, TM VSR/K98, SnS No. 4, ASG Sten, Ppsh.
Arnhem3,Gumrak,Campoleone
