I don't mind splitting the charges...
I don't mind splitting the charges...
Neither do I and collection at Autumn Mist fine with me.
thanks Jay, let me know how much mate
Doug
Thanks Jay - box of bits turned up at 12.50!
I've pulled my packages apart and it doesn't look too shabby at all. Quite a complicated piece of machining in fact. Black paint will be removed for sure (I'm sure someone had info on aluminium faux 'blueing' ).
I have a hell of a lot of stuff to do tonight but I will have to get the CYMA stripped and refitted, come what may!
One question: how the hell to you fit a sling to a 1928?
Sling hook goes on the left hand side of the foregrip. Mounted horizontally.
Normally the sling at the back is on the bottom as per normal... but the brits did convert some to have it on the top.
If he's not supplied sling hooks use the ones off your old kit/thompson...
I can't find a pic of it on the net, but my real deal foregrip came with screws holes ready drilled so I'm sure I got it right.
Here's a pic showing where it should go...
(Note it does make using the foregrip very slightly awkward.)
Here's webby with mine...
That's great, thanks. So it's mounted vertically in the photo?
I won't have time to chisel out a rebate for the screw plate so I'll have to surface mount it for now. (Unless it was surface mounted anyway, in which case I'm sorted!)
I have the feeling the foregrip is much wider than the real thing, it will be interesting to compare!
The plate is horizontal, the hook is vertical.
Mine isn't rebated either... hence why the problem using the foregrip afterwards... but you get used to it.
Studying that pic, I hadn't noticed that webby was left handed before! heh...
Having now lashed up the bits there are a few fundamental design problems which I shall elucidate in later days but I will give it an outing on Sunday even if it has to be bound with lashings of gaffer tape!
look forward to seeing yours and getting mine this weekend!! 
Having now lashed up the bits there are a few fundamental design problems which I shall elucidate in later days but I will give it an outing on Sunday even if it has to be bound with lashings of gaffer tape!
that dont sound too good dave, will try and get mine put together at the weekend and see how it is.
Ok chaps, have just spent a few hours sorting mine, what a mess!!!
1. the main grip over motor is 10mm out of line with the mounting hole on the motor case, so scrapped it as it was a totaly different colour and wood grain, used my original platic one as it matches colour wise
2. re tap ALL the threaded holes as they are badly done, the ally used is of a very poor quality and strips threads easily BE WARNED DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS!!!!
3. barrel went on ok AFTER i re drilled the ends(8.5mm) where they screw together, had big burs inside and you cant get the inner barrel through, also screw the barrel parts together when on the inner barrel
4. front grip/mount holes do not line up! hand to re drill bigger ans file to fit (poor marking out and unacurate drilling by them!) then the triangular front support was a little out of line with the gaps in the outter barrel cooling fins (file carefully to fit!) also will be remaking this bracket out of steel, ally is TOO soft for this!!!
5. Rear stock: had to re drill the front mount hole as the bolt hole was way off centre!
in the rear when fitting the stock plate battery door you will need longer bolts throught the sling mount and about an 8-10mm spacer under the stock plate rotary hinge as otherwise you cant shut and open the plate to get to your battery i also powerfiled the poor finish where the plate should push in to the wooden stock
6.Paint? ha ha NO etch primer(or any primer for that matter) so all the black just falls off!!! 
7.the main (3 part) reciever is a VETY tight fit on to the stock of my TM thomo had to gently tap with a rubber mallet to get it to seat!
8.MODIFICATION!!!!!!!
Now just in front of the mag well ehre the sides of the reciever join the centre section neet drilling at tapping (M4 or 5 should do) as otherwise you can see the centre of the reciever bending when you hold the foregrip and pull lightly, so could be in trouble when slung over the shoulder!!
all in all, its had NO quality control and i would never buy from them again!!!
Bummer but thats the truth of it!
good luck
Doug
Thats a shame that they've not turned out great. Maybe someone should write a strongly worded email to AZR about the matter. You guys waited a long time for them, and spent a considerable amount of cash with them.
i am at least in the postion to sort mine am working on it now making better bits for it! , but yep you are right, am less than over the moon with it!
Heh, endorse all of Doug's points!
I haven't had the time of inclination to have another go at it yet. I'm not sure whether issues are because of TM/CYMA compatibility (one would assume they are identical) but anyway, lots of re-work required!
Two points to add:
Foregrip (even MK2) is rubbish - twice as wide and the top wood extension that attaches to the bracket is twice as deep as it should be. Stupid ally bar too that will bend in game use unless you don't use a sling and carry it by clasping the receiver.
The hop which normally is fixed in place by two screws has in it's place two slots for the tangs to fit into. I couldn't align this as the outer barrel has a very narrow inside diameter so a bit of floating adjustment isn't possible. This meant that the hop didn't align properly with the gearbox nozzle, so all sorts of feeding/seal issues.
When I'm feeling a bit better I'll have another crack at sorting (making use of Doug's fixes!)
PS Can anyone point me in the direction of artificial aluminium bluing?
Chomers, i put the inner barrel in to the reciever put in the gearbox and pushed it all forward, you do have to trim the existing hop mounts down and i used a blob of good super glue to hold the hop plate to the gearbox section
as for blueing you used to be able to get it in pots from a gun shop, i will probably use oven grate polish in layers and buff it back, messy but looks good!
Doug
also the quality of the machining is naff on these parts too 
Sounds like they need a reality check if they think they can turn out shoddy work for the prices they charge.
Ah, cheers for the tips Doug.
oven grate polish
Heh, reaches for the Zebo! (no, it's not left over from when I was a lad - the studio has stained glass windows that I have to repair from time to time...)