[Sticky] K98 Springer Projects

The hop can be adjusted with the handguard in situ - Inserting a blade between the joint and then a thin "feeler gauge" type tool to slide the hop forwards or back........ But as you say - keeping it internal so that it stands less chance of being knocked.

Hop rubber is standard as far as we know - Will live with it for a while as the FPS is nice.... but will certainly use the ones lsited when replacement is needed.

The sight picture is non standard and we have worked out that due to the larger diameter of the sylinder, the rear sight sits higher than it originally did - thus causing the shooter to raise the muzzle in order to get a conventional sight picture. this has the effect of making the rifle shoot high and this extrapolates the further out you go.

So using the top of the foresight cover dips the muzzle sufficiently (we think) - otherwise it's a custom foresight blade!!!!!!

(or God forbid a scope - which I am ADAMANT I do not want to fit..... too Gucci)

I have the exact same problem with the sights on my SMLE. The sight ends up over the top of the hop unit and though I've shaved as much off that as I dare it's still about 4mm too high.

My solution was to do as you've done, but I did stick a small piece of plasticard on the top of the foresight blade. Unfortunately that was knocked off half way through Ariel.

Luckily Enfield foresight blades are replaceable and there are different sizes, so I'm planning on getting a taller one at some point.

The hop can be adjusted with the handguard in situ - Inserting a blade between the joint and then a thin "feeler gauge" type tool to slide the hop forwards or back........ But as you say - keeping it internal so that it stands less chance of being knocked.

Hop rubber is standard as far as we know - Will live with it for a while as the FPS is nice.... but will certainly use the ones lsited when replacement is needed.

The sight picture is non standard and we have worked out that due to the larger diameter of the sylinder, the rear sight sits higher than it originally did - thus causing the shooter to raise the muzzle in order to get a conventional sight picture. this has the effect of making the rifle shoot high and this extrapolates the further out you go.

So using the top of the foresight cover dips the muzzle sufficiently (we think) - otherwise it's a custom foresight blade!!!!!!

(or God forbid a scope - which I am ADAMANT I do not want to fit..... too Gucci)

Personally I would deffinitly replace the hop rubber, whilst increased FPS is nice, better air-seal = better shot-to-shot consistency and this is actually much more important! I think a bearing spring-guide is another essential upgrade as again it improves consistency. Neither of these items are going to break the bank either!

Re the sight picture, I think its the same for all VSR based conversions, I think I have just learned to aim a bit low with mine. modding the fore-sight blade is a good idea though

Really excellent mate! The finish is absolutely sublime! your rear-sight integration is absolutely seemless. What Primer/Paint did you use on it?

I see you went for hop ajustment via hand-guard removal only. possibly a good call as I have on occasion knocked mine out of setting during use, and of course its another slight in-accuracy compared to the RS.

The bar has definitly been upped yet another level, I'm going to have to work very very hard to top that with my current undertaking

The paint is Halfords matt black spray. I've always found it to be superbly consistent, with no need for primer, and it dries with a nice subtle sheen to it. It'll look even better with a bit of oil on it, but that needs to wait until it's fully cured. The rear sight has seams, but they aren't overly obvious after a bit of filler. As PD says, we've found that the hop can be adjusted with feeler gauges between the upper and lower wood. There is just enough give, without the fit being loose. I don't think it's quite up to your high standards, but it's not a bad effort. Without your photos, I'd have been stumped on a couple of things

Personally I would deffinitly replace the hop rubber

I'm not taking the bugger to bits again!

That's really nice work there, very well done! You can get a nice "blued" finish over halfords black by using Andrea Miniatures gunmetal blue, thinned down a bit and rubbed in. Really adds to the look of a gun (just a suggestion to make it even better).

I'll leave it for now, but it might be worth looking at at a later stage. He wants to take this to Beltring, so all mucking about with it has ceased for the present. Just sorted the hop adjustment tools though:

Left is part of the original VSR hop, I believe, which has a wedged end, perfect for inserting between the wood on the stock to make the gap a tad bigger. Right is part of the old Dboys magazine spring, cut to a point, which operates the hop through the gap

Had a little wobble today when PD broke the bolt release catch off He didn't really, it fell off because the fit was too good to get a decent amount of epoxy behind it Anyway, I drilled it, and drilled and tapped the receiver, and it's now bolted on nice and secure with a bit more epoxy behind it. I don't know, you make things for people and all they can do is find more stuff for you to do

Finally just completed my 3rd Bar98K (sic) conversion!

This one is a dboys and JG Bar-10 conversion and is a commision for a well known member of these forums. I pulled out all the stops with this one and tried out some new ideas to try to get it as realistic and as close to the real thing as I possibly could, even to the extent of adding realistic trade marks for a 1937 K98 from the Mauser-Werks AG Berlin Borsigwalde factory!

I'm pretty confident its new owner will be very pleased with it!

Ooooooohhh!!

I wonder who the lucky person is... ?

is it the same person who's posted on Pst .............my new rifle..?

Nice

So how many Mauser's have you gone through now Andy?

Don't you start!

Lovely job as always Bosh

So beautiful!!!

I'm also thinking of a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion.

Who needs a tanaka if you can have a k98 springer!^^

All the time i was thinking of another way to rework the dboy's, but the problem is the pull mechanism on the springer version. It makes it so impractical. And the gas version, i heard, is leaky and the accuracy is only a little bit better than on the springer version.
My idea was to build a magazine in the shell magazine of the dboy's k98 like on the tanaka k98 but then you have to rework the bolt like on the tanaka but i think it's impossible and not worth it because of the pull mechanism. Maybe with the gas version it would be acceptable.

But now i'm thinking of a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion because i want to play also in the cold days and then gas is no otpion. So i think i will make a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion soon. Especially the K98k of Boshman is sooooooooo beatiful!!!! Really amazing

@Boshman

How did you connect the thing i have circled on the picture to the systemshell of the bar-10? Did you glue it?

Thanks a lot!!!

P.S.: Sorry for my english, maybe it's not so good. I'm from Germany -- attachment is not available --

So beautiful!!!

I'm also thinking of a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion.

Who needs a tanaka if you can have a k98 springer!^^

All the time i was thinking of another way to rework the dboy's, but the problem is the pull mechanism on the springer version. It makes it so impractical. And the gas version, i heard, is leaky and the accuracy is only a little bit better than on the springer version.
My idea was to build a magazine in the shell magazine of the dboy's k98 like on the tanaka k98 but then you have to rework the bolt like on the tanaka but i think it's impossible and not worth it because of the pull mechanism. Maybe with the gas version it would be acceptable.

But now i'm thinking of a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion because i want to play also in the cold days and then gas is no otpion. So i think i will make a dboy's k98-bar-10 conversion soon. Especially the K98k of Boshman is sooooooooo beatiful!!!! Really amazing

@Boshman

How did you connect the thing i have circled on the picture to the systemshell of the bar-10? Did you glue it?

Thanks a lot!!!

P.S.: Sorry for my english, maybe it's not so good. I'm from Germany

Thank you for your kind words Eddy Your english is actually very good and makes perfect sense! infinitely better than my german!

The bit you circled, the bolt release level is attached with 2 part epoxy resin (Araldite). It is very strong providing you rough up the two faces of the parts being glued together so there is something for the glue to “grip”

Glück ab with your conversion. Please just ask if you need any more help or info.

thank you very much.

I think i will ask a lot of things^^

The bit you circled, the bolt release level is attached with 2 part epoxy resin (Araldite). It is very strong providing you rough up the two faces of the parts being glued together so there is something for the glue to “grip”

On the K98 conversion I made for PD, it fell off. The surfaces were too well polished. Simple fix though. I drilled and tapped the receiver and screwed it on. Won't fall off now

Hi there guys!!

Where can I find a good guide to convert my Dboys K98 with a Bar10? I'm so disapointed with the dboys, it really shoots as it wants it....to the left....to the right....up.....down..... but not center! lol

Where can I find a good guide to convert my Dboys K98 with a Bar10?

I think you'll find the 18 or so pages of this thread might give you a pointer or two.