Edit : Question. i'm curious. Was there any types of suppressors issued with use on the MP40? Currently the only thing holding my front sight on is a wad of electrical tape. I didn't realize the barrel nut held it in place. Damn you USA for making those ugly orange tips! Wouldn't have destroyed it as thuroughly as I had if I knew it held the stuff in place.
No suppressor as far as I'm aware. To adequately suppress a standard 9mm parabellum round would require a ported barrel and long suppressor (See the "S" versions of the Sten and MP5 SD). Failing that, special light loads would be required as the round is supersonic as standard.
Is the barrel nut something you could buy as a spare part, or even have someone make one for you? I don't have mine to hand, so I can't say how easy/hard it'd be to make one.
ill check my spares box, i may have a spare barrel nut i can send you 
"Take that you rotton helping of strawberry flan!"
Joseph Porta to "strawberrys and cream", in the sven hassel book ,ogpu prison
ill check my spares box, i may have a spare barrel nut i can send you
Having thought about it more, it's actually the MUZZLE NUT that he needs.
The barrel nut is at the receiver end of the barrel, just in front of the sling loop. He needs the bit at the muzzle end which is painted orange for import into the US.
On the ASG MP40 (which I'm told is the same as the AGM), that muzzle nut screws on at least partially - It was loose on mine when I received it, so I screwed it back on.
yes thats how i understood it 
"Take that you rotton helping of strawberry flan!"
Joseph Porta to "strawberrys and cream", in the sven hassel book ,ogpu prison
Heh, I lost my nut 
in a game a couple of years ago. I don't know how. As I progressed through the day I managed to lose everything else as the foresight and outer barrel bits slipped off. 
Meh, it ended up reincarnated as Old 'Un's MP28. Moral: keep your nut tight - it has a sprung washer IRC so it should keep its grip.
It'll be a few weeks before I can get to it, but if they're simple enough, I could have a bash at making some.
I just measured the muzzle nut on my ASG gun.
It's an internally threaded tube 15mm long, outside dia. about 20mm before a straight knurl is applied.
A single 4mm wide groove is cut through the knurl,centrally along the length (the nut is symmetrical). The reduced dia. in the groove is about 17.5mm.
It looks like it's threaded M14 x 1mm pitch, RIGHT HAND - not left hand like most suppressors.
I'd be interested to know if you can sort out the stock wobble.
I love mines dearly, but its the one thing that lets the bakelite AGMs down imho.
AGM MP40 - AGM STG44 - CYMA Thompson M1A1 - WE P08 4 inch - Marushin M1 Carbine GBB - AGM Sten MkII
check ALL the nuts and screwson a mp40 after each skirmish, mine come loose quite a lot
as said in pm, ill bung one in as well
"Take that you rotton helping of strawberry flan!"
Joseph Porta to "strawberrys and cream", in the sven hassel book ,ogpu prison
pm`ed you, parts waiting to go, just need your address
"Take that you rotton helping of strawberry flan!"
Joseph Porta to "strawberrys and cream", in the sven hassel book ,ogpu prison
Not sure if my MP40 was speshul or what, but nitromors did diddly squat in the grand scheme of things against the paint on the upper receiver, same with the mags. Required blow torch and wirewool for me!
ÏŸÏŸ
My armoury;
Tanaka Kar98(1942 woodwork and parts), M1 Garand AEG(1940's woodwork and metalwork), MG34, SVT40, Mosin Nagant M44, MP40, PPSH41, Luger and PPK.
I've just got hold of a new AGM model and I am about to start on the same process. I'll try and post some pics. I was planning on simply going at it with wet and dry and wire wook and my dremmel to wear the paint down, then maybe a bit of fire black to try and give an oily look on some of the moving parts. I've used fire black on some plastic pistols before to get a nice metallic sheen.
I find the easiest way to get paint off my gins is lend them out to mates. I always try to return the favour, as I reckon it's all good weathering . Throwing my SA80 around in my Landrover for 3 years did it the world of good. 
So a Sunday afternoon of gun abuse and I have learned that the paintwork on the Cyma Thompson falls off when you stare at it for a while, whereas the paint on the AGM MP40 will probably be around well after I am dead and burried.
Wire wool and the finest wet and dry did for the Thompson in about 20 minutes.
An hour after starting on the MP40 I was still going on the upper body metalwork. I've managed to dull it all down a bit, but it is well painted. The paint on the stock, on the other hand, practically fell off.
I've touched them both up with fire grate blacking and they look good. I've also had a play with some old plastic pistols and they'ce come out quite nicely as well. Photos to follow.
Without checking, I'd say the upper receiver was sheet steel, so it would hold paint well. Equally, if the stock is aluminium, it'd not hold paint at all well.
Did you take it apart to nitromors it ? I've only ever used that stuff on old victorian fireplaces and doors. I've never tried to do anything precise with it.
did you use birchwood casey aluminium black,if so whats the process and how durable is the finish ?,as ive got to black some ally soon myself and will use it if its durable enough.
armoury
m1a1 Thompson,sten mk2,mp40,stg44,sterling,mk2 bren gun,lee Enfield no4 mk1,Mauser Kar98, Walther ppk,smith and Weston m10 and Mauser m712
Give me a big enough hammer and a place to stand and I could fix the world.
i'll kill a man in a fair fight or if i think he's going to start a fair fight or over a woman or.......
a problem shared is a problem halved ,but an advantage shared is no advantage at all
if a job's not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well
did you use birchwood casey aluminium black,if so whats the process and how durable is the finish ?,as ive got to black some ally soon myself and will use it if its durable enough.
I have used mine on the innerbarrel of the 30 cal. The barrel was sanded by hand to make it fit and i think this helped the finish.I applied plenty of coats, washed, dried and repeated. Then left for a week because of time etc and applied a few more coats doing the same process later.After adding a little gun oil it looks just like the real post war one. The barrel atm is only friction fitted in my 30 cal and i had to tap it in, all the way. Especially the last part as this wasnt sanded at all, and i was surprised as the finish didnt scrath at all.
What you are looking at is a very poor camera photo. What you can see in the "holes" is the Birchwood Casey finish. I hope this helps.
After adding a little gun oil it looks just like the real post war one.
That seems to be the key to stepping the realistic look up a notch. My experiments with fire black are an attempt to get that kind of oily sheen / burnished through long term use effect. Sounds stupid, but I didn't actually think of using oil !
After adding a little gun oil it looks just like the real post war one.
That seems to be the key to stepping the realistic look up a notch. My experiments with fire black are an attempt to get that kind of oily sheen / burnished through long term use effect. Sounds stupid, but I didn't actually think of using oil !
Heh, even though I am very happy with the finish I did chat to the person helping me make my 30 cal and in hindsight using a slightly "thicker" type of oil may of given it an even better finish.
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