My pps kar98 wood looks like it could do with some liquid refreshment.
I don't want it too shiny, just healthy.
Which brand of linseed/danish/tung oil do people use ?
Is it ok to just go down to B&Q and get the ronseal/cuprinol stuff, or do they give a more varnished finish ?
If it was a real gun the owner would probably get real anal about the products used and spend a large amount on regular gunk re-packaged in bottles and tins labelled "Special gun-only product!" Lol. I strip my airsoft wood back to bare wood with sanding blocks under running water, then use oil-paint in turps to re-stain it. After that's been rubbed in and allowed to dry (use as many applications as feels good) I use un-refined linseed-oil ( https://vod.ebay.co.uk/vod/FetchOrderDe ... entstatus= ). Apparently it reacts better than the refined stuff. After a few applications of that and allowing it to dry (recommended time is one month to 'cure') I use bees-wax to seal it all in (gunsmiths recommend micro-crystalline but nuts to that expense, it's an airsoft gun).
The problem with the finish on airsoft guns is they seal out pretty much anything you apply, so you'll end up with a layer of whatever sitting on top of the finish rather than penetrating the wood with goodness (laminates even moreso). If it's cheap wood it's not really worth the bother of doing much but if it's good stuff it is worth the effort. 
Just finished my Garand (G&G):
That is looking good 
For a service I just use boiled linseed oil first ,a few coats till it stops soaking in then rub a bee's wax block over it and buff with a dry cloth ,the bee's wax gives a nice lasting sheen ,linseed oil alone looks nice at first but then goes very dull ,the bee's wax after just gives it a nice permanent sheen .Bee's wax is cheap as well.
armoury
m1a1 Thompson,sten mk2,mp40,stg44,sterling,mk2 bren gun,lee Enfield no4 mk1,Mauser Kar98, Walther ppk,smith and Weston m10 and Mauser m712
Give me a big enough hammer and a place to stand and I could fix the world.
i'll kill a man in a fair fight or if i think he's going to start a fair fight or over a woman or.......
a problem shared is a problem halved ,but an advantage shared is no advantage at all
if a job's not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well
Cheers for the info both.....may get chance to at least do a test this weekend, think my taxi service is getting a rest for a change 
Being incredibly lazy, I just use the stuff I do the kitchen work tops with, Jonkers wood oil.
I use beeswax dubbin anyway, so I just stick a layer of dubbin on top.
Cheers
Martin
"Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified" Helmuth von Moltke
Toys: AGM MP40, Cyma M1A1, TM M14/G43/SVT40, TM VSR/K98, SnS No. 4, ASG Sten, Ppsh.
Arnhem3,Gumrak,Campoleone
Hi
I have had problems where linseed oil own can leave black stains where any water makes contact.That maybe because it was oak
or because it was not boiled linseed oil,not exactly sure of the cause,.i am not saying don't use boiled linseed oil at all though, its what most people use.
Danish oil is worth looking at also.
To seal the surface beeswax is also very good,but often i use french polish,just happen to have this laying around, as it forms a layer also to stop the wood soaking up moisture,its important to protect any end grain.
Rustins brand stain can be bought from any hardware shop if you don't like the light colour if you do a lot of sanding as preparation.
Hope this helps
I sanded down my KA Thomson and applied linseed oil and it looks great but, as I discovered, pure linseed oil takes forever to dry and can remain sticky for ages. I now use a mixture of boiled linseed oil and pure turpentine in roughly a 1:2 ratio respectively. It's thinner and dries much, much quicker.
- We don't stop playing because we grow old. We grow old because we stop playing -
- While growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional -
Cheers for input guys.
Went for a very light sand and have put two layers of BLO on for now...a bit of wipe on, wait 10 mins wipe off exercise. Will be following up with some mineral oil/beeswax later in the week.
Had a problem with it firing, which I thought was the inlet port seal shredded. Fitted replacement but still no dice, could throw bbs further.
Remembered some thread where, I think dadio, mentioned hammer spring. Searched around, found Tanaka diagram and hoped PPS bolt was a twin rather than a close cousin.
Turned out hammer spring screw had worked loose. So tightened as much as I dared and she's actually firing now.
