How do you apply Blanco?

I had some used webbing some blancoed some not so i soaked them in water so then painted on the SOF blanco forming a foam lather then let it dry in the sun then applied more if it was needed, the colour comes out nice its sort of like A Brige Too Far coloured webbing.

thanks dev, you just saved me a job

I can see what DT means by A Bridge Too Far - flat, solid, dried-pea green rather than the soaked-in colour of Yith's webbing for instance

Thats the early war colour...

But even KG3, when applied without "It's me last block" frugleness, comes out in a nice block colour - just a darker green. Not the best photo example, but below is Mike (the one in the centre holding the bandage at GMA's D-Day+2 this year). His webbing was not that long ago Blanco'd and shows a good uniform colouring of the dark sage green that genuine KG3 produces.

And here is a unbiased colour capture photo of 'round and crumbly' "chalky" wartime KG3 blanco. I've already posted this image a few pages back in this thread about something else, but it'll serve it's purpose here too
The top one is the KG3, used to get a good fair covering, but it has been worn a bit since application:

Hope these references help!

well, as time goes on and genuine blanco dissapears, what other options are open? looks like SOF liquid for the future.

when applying the shoe polish from wpg, does the webbing have to be wet or can i put it straight on.
cheers
jay

I suppose if you wanted you could apply small ammounts of GW paints like Dark angels green to darken SOF blanco but dont hold me to that i have not tried it.

when applying the shoe polish from wpg, does the webbing have to be wet or can i put it straight on.
cheers
jay

You put it on dry, best to be dry-brushed in with a toothbrush. You don't have to apply it sparingly, but don't put on too much at once as it'll get too cloggy.
Best to mix in a bit of Games Workshop 'Catachan Green' modellers paint to taint it to a closer match of shade, otherwise without it the Tarrago can be rather transparent looking. In my previous post above with the two blanco'd straps, the top is genuine KG3, and the lower is Tarrago with 5ml (genuine teaspoon measure) GW green paint added (per 50ml tub of Tarrago) .

Put this together some time ago and don't think I've posted it on this board before. Hope it's useful.

Obviously colour is subject to lighting conditions which can vary from image to image so TR2398 is quite good as it appears as two very clearly different shades on the two belts to the left as viewed.

EDITED OUT

just used my block of waxy stuff to blanco a pair of gaiter and a waterbottle holder....... fingers crossed.

oh dear

that was easy, not too messy and so far looks ok,,,, i will know better when it dries.

two full sets of webbing, two pares of gaitors an extra set of cross straps . done and cleaned up in 90 mins.just the small pack and L straps left to do at the weekend.

Why so glum/anti-blanco, Yith?

I'm just very anti waxy block blanco...

When I've seen it used its looked very wrong to me and almost impossible to remove.

I'm just very anti waxy block blanco...

When I've seen it used its looked very wrong to me and almost impossible to remove.

That's interesting. Personally I use the waxy block as IMO a couple of light coats produces a result just like some of the webbing in the set of period images I posted on an earlier page.

Both the belts in these images were done with waxy block and I think can be reasonably matched to a period photo:

EDITED OUT

Incidentally, both of the belts received exactly the same treatment, the difference in shade etc being due to the colour and wear of the belt before being blancoed.

Actually that looks good to me.
i think the problem is is that folk try and use the waxy blokc in the same water/paint ratio as the round cake and it comes out looking like a 4 year old has had the green crayolas on it.

Obviously you just dont need very much.

i think the problem is is that folk try and use the waxy blokc in the same water/paint ratio as the round cake and it comes out looking like a 4 year old has had the green crayolas on it.

Agree with you 100% there Gadge.

For what it's worth:

Yep, only a small amount is required. So far 7/8ths (I gave some away!) of one block has served me two belts, 2 pairs x-straps, pistol holster, .45 mag case, 2 w/bottle carriers, a sten bandolier (better blancoed than SOF orange!), pair gaiters, 2 x basic pouches and an e/t cover. I've got a small pack and L-straps still to do and expect to have some left.

I apply it by putting the block in a small bowl, then pouring a bit of cold water in and working up a dilute with a toothbrush. If unsure, it's better for the dilute to be too weak as it's easier to apply extra coats but is a bu@@er to get off. Two or three coats applied with the toothbrush, allowing it to dry in between.

EDIT: None of the foregoing intended to discourage use of the proper powdery puck