Standard MP5 227mm 
Lovely looking gun mate!
If you want to sort out the plastic and get that genuine 1940's bakelite look, check out a user call Guinness on Arnies and the US ww2 forum. He has a neat technique that looks great.
Now I am regretting selling my MP40 as well!
do you have any links? Arnies is a big forum!
He's also am member here:-
Could you elaborate on the internal parts used, e.g V2 or V3.
I skirmished mine for the first time today, and while it outperformed my Sten for a while, it then started firing intermittently, then it completely refused to fire.
I'll be attacking it with a custom MOSFET as a minimum, and I may experiment with piston sensors. In which case, if I'm going to be opening up the gearbox, etc. I might as well do the mods.
Internals are V3 mate.
Thanks.
How do the plastic receiver sides come off?
I undid the screws, but the sides don't come apart at a point rearward of the dismantling latch. Does it need to be pried apart with a thin wedge or blade of some kind?
Do you think the box would be OK if I drilled a hole at the back, behind the spring guide, like most other boxes have?
No one?
cant remember how the plastics came apart on mine 
I wouldnt recommend drilling the gear box, just use a long thin electrical screw driver to split the box and hold the spring guide down?
I wouldnt recommend drilling the gear box, just use a long thin electrical screw driver to split the box and hold the spring guide down?
I don't want it for disassembly. I'm considering putting a piston sensor in the spring guide. I'd need a way to get the wires out.
you should be ok to drill it then, just take your time. will also help if you need to take the mechbox apart as well 
why the piston sensor? just curious as Ive never heard of one
Combined with a MOSFET controller, it can make sure every cycle completes. Using such a setup means the spring won't stay compressed because the controller stops the cycle only after the piston fires. Plus, it is one route to true plug-and-play semi-auto locking (no need to "train" the controller every time you swap batteries).
There are very few such setups around, and as far as I know they're all custom jobs. One variant is a hall sensor in the spring guide, and a magnet on the piston head. Another is a hall sensor which detects the position of a magnet in the sector gear. I have an experiment planned to try an optical sensor in the spring guide which, if it works, could be a "non-gearbox-opening" method of semi-locking M14s.
But this is a subject for another thread, when I get time to experiment.
will watch this with interest if you put a new thread together?
only just got my head around fixing mechboxes! need to try mosfet kits etc yet
have learnt a hell of lot since joining CIA
will watch this with interest if you put a new thread together?
I will do so. I have an M14 box to use for testing already, but it'll be late Feb before I can work on it.
Back on topic (sort of):
I got the 2 halves of my casing off. The 2 pins holding the bottom in alignment were pretty stiff, and needed some gentle persuasion to separate them.
Was it perma-blue or super blue you used on the steel? Also what gun oil? So many types!
Super Blue and parker hale gun oil. Heck 3 in one would do 
Managed to fit an AK hop to mine. No photo's BUT i have 2 more to do so I'll do a step by step guide for all you chaps. Also I may know haw to stop stock wobble!!!! watch this space
ta
Dave
Managed to fit an AK hop to mine. No photo's BUT i have 2 more to do so I'll do a step by step guide for all you chaps
Ah, Excellent! I bought a TM AK hop with a view to attempting this myself. I can't get to it for a few weeks now, so I'll watch this space.
BTW, could you recommend a barrel and a source? Ta.
Thanks! I just ordered myself some.
sorry but im abit confused on the reassemblty of the barrel do you use the black bit of plastic on the end of the barrel again that you cut off or do you just re insert the new barrel with rubber straight into the hop unit can you clarify for me
