Thank you for correcting my shaky memory m'lud.
Urgh. Never want to end up as "m'lud". A decent Solicitor makes a whole lot more money than a Judge does 
When we were a Kingdom it was run by a King
When we were an Empire it was run by an Empress
Now we're a country we're run by a..........
Just to add a personal experience to this thread. I had to have a 0.29g SGM BB removed from my head after it went 11mm deep.
It was an upgraded L96 and approx 1 foot range. I still have the scar and a dent in the skull.
From 1 foot? How the hell did that happen?
When we were a Kingdom it was run by a King
When we were an Empire it was run by an Empress
Now we're a country we're run by a..........
Apparent misfire. To this day I'm still not sure.
It was before "Game on" was even shouted and I was on my ass before I knew what had happened.
Negligent discharge...the shooter should`ve been whipped naked whilst running around the skirmish field 
Just to add a personal experience to this thread. I had to have a 0.29g SGM BB removed from my head after it went 11mm deep.
It was an upgraded L96 and approx 1 foot range. I still have the scar and a dent in the skull.
wow im glad mine wasnt as bad as that 1
The whole 1J thing is really dependent on the projectile. For example, a 3.2gram paintball at 300 FPS gives a muzzle energy of 13J
Negligent discharge...the shooter should`ve been whipped naked whilst running around the skirmish field
chomers does that for kicks 
theres nowt so Permanent as temporary
Negligent discharge...the shooter should`ve been whipped naked whilst running around the skirmish field
chomers does that for kicks
Good god, the visual image I now have engraved on my mind, I won`t be right for weeks. 
So, had a bit of spare time today so finally made a start on a bit of testing with my BGS hop'd K98. Not got round to making up the ballistic gel yet but I thought I'd tackle first things first.
I'm plagued by fps inconsistency so I had a go with four mags and three gases.
One was filled with Abbey Predator 134a, another two with 'Super Power Green Gas' (no brand but it has a camo print and is made in Taiwan) and one with Bernzomatic Propane. Chrono was a Madbull Chrono-1 with fresh battery.
First thing to say was there was nothing odd about the speed of the first BB out of a freshly filled mag and I had the muzzle as close to the chrono I could get it. That is to say, it might have been faster or slower than the second BB but not dramatically. And the chrono wouldn't read anything with a gas-only discharge. Mind, all these tests were done at 9.5 degrees C.
I filled all the mags in room temeprature, allowed the chill to go off for ten minutes and then put them in the studio for a couple of hours (which is 9.5C today - not in use and therefore unheated).
BBs were 0.2g Blaster type - nothing 'special'
Well, it confirmed by inconsistency 'problem'.
134a - low: 190.8 high: 274.9 average: 235.7
Green(1) - low: 370.6 high: 398.5 average: 418.5
Green(2) - low: 406.9 high: 431.0 average: 387.6
Propane - low: 292.9 high: 355.5 average: 329.0
Apart from the variance of low to high readings what struck me was that propane was giving lower readings than green gas (I thought propane was most powerful) and that two magazines of green gas gave 30fps difference.
So I thought perhaps how the magazines were delivering the gas was affecting power output. I repeated the tests using the four magazines but all filled with propane ('cos its cheapest!) - I filled the mags then dumped it then refilled so as not to have any residual different gas in the mag.
And using them in the same order as above I got:
1. low: 274.9 high: 435.3 average: 367.7
2. low: 385.3 high: 451.0 average: 409.3
3. low: 386.2 high: 444.1 average: 419.3
4. low: 385.3 high: 459.3 average: 441.4 (note: this mag gave low: 292.9 high: 355.5 average: 329.0 on previous run)
So, same gas & BBs but different mags gave a range of 274.9 to 385.3 low, 435.3 to 459.3 high, 367.7 to 441.4 average.
Since I don't have any consistency AT ALL it isn't worth moving on to ballistic gel!
So, what are your thoughts K98 gurus. Strip, clean and re-lube magazines?
That's a huge inconsistency! My BGS equipped K98 only had a 7fps variation at Husky! You may have an air leak somewhere by the looks of it.
When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!
With regard CWs k98 i fitted the bgs hop unit and found the fps inconsistent but with my bolt it worked fine ? the strange thing is the bolt from CWs in my k98 worked fine too.......? 
______________
Gimme your bolt then!
Heh, mags are giving distinctly different powers so would that be due to how much gas the lever (that the firing pin strikes) allows out - or how strong the lever's spring is - or the valve sticking open a little bit longer?
are your springs, strike levers stock or upgraded ones in the mags?
I had no idea you can change them so they are as they came!
ok, so you've got boggers mags then.
There are a variety of upgrades that could be made to parts even within the mags. Obviously discounted in your case.
An old thread I know, apologies for this.
Not sure if people are aware but it is VERY easy to downgrade these badboys with nothing more than a 1.5mm allen key and a flatbade screw driver, so how people can call them evil I'm not quite sure...... I've set mine up to run on green at 400ish with a 555mm 603 VSR tightbore and 9ball hop rubber.
It can be set so that you can litterally just get a round out the barrel, or that you can put holes in things, and everywhere in between.
ÏŸÏŸ
My armoury;
Tanaka Kar98(1942 woodwork and parts), M1 Garand AEG(1940's woodwork and metalwork), MG34, SVT40, Mosin Nagant M44, MP40, PPSH41, Luger and PPK.
do tell us more 
do tell us more
Ok;
Remove your bolt. Pop the faux extractor off and dump it to one side. You will find 2 screws on the bottom of the bolt that will require a flatblade screwdriver. You want to remove the one on the front half of the bolt. Removing this allows you to remove the head of the bolt from the bolt body. Be careful, as theres a sprung ball bearing that'll want to do a disappearing act as you remove it. Now you need to loosen the 1.5mm grubscrew found on the bottom of the striker on the rear of the bolt. Once thats loosened off, look down the inside of the bolt, you'll find another screw that needs a flatblade. This is the badboy you're looking for. Loosening it will adjust power DOWN the way. Tightening it will adjust power UP the way. As stock this will be as tight as can be. Setting this is a trial and error process, adjust, re-assemble(reverse of dismantling), chrono, over and over till you get it nailed.
All you're doing with this is adjusting the tension on the hammer spring. More tension makes the hammer hit harder, less makes it hit softer.
Hope this helps.
ÏŸÏŸ
My armoury;
Tanaka Kar98(1942 woodwork and parts), M1 Garand AEG(1940's woodwork and metalwork), MG34, SVT40, Mosin Nagant M44, MP40, PPSH41, Luger and PPK.
ta very much.