I bought Well mb03's from Taiwangun pl, haven't checked, but I think they were cheaper, same quality of rifle. I will be making some charge handles next month I expect.
Andy
Sounds like a stupid question, but...
If I intend to replace most bits of the Well MB03 with CNC pieces from somewhere like Airsoftpro.cz do I even need to buy the original gun?
They do hop units, cylinders, trigger mechanisms, receivers etc
The body I'd be replacing anyway
Or is there some glaring error I've missed?
Ultimately this is to build a P14/P17 Enfield
You are right in some respects, to say that you will eventually junk most of the donor gun, but the receiver tube to buy separate, is expensive as they are made of better quality material. Probably about the same price as a complete donor gun from Taiwan gun, but you still need a section of outer barrel that houses the hop unit, you could have one made, probably again the cost of a complete donor gun!
I try to get used vsr 10 types if I can, but the last one I bought new was only £58 thereabouts! For me personally the upgrades come after I've made the gun and happy with the way it looks, feels and works, as alterations may effect on upgrade parts. I would much rather alter a cheapo trigger box and the find out that the idea didn't work as to bugger up an expensive upgrade part!
I too have looked at doing a P 14/17 but the step in the stock may well effect where the mag fits........needs some thinking about.
Andy
You are right in some respects, to say that you will eventually junk most of the donor gun, but the receiver tube to buy separate, is expensive as they are made of better quality material. Probably about the same price as a complete donor gun from Taiwan gun, but you still need a section of outer barrel that houses the hop unit, you could have one made, probably again the cost of a complete donor gun!
I try to get used vsr 10 types if I can, but the last one I bought new was only £58 thereabouts! For me personally the upgrades come after I've made the gun and happy with the way it looks, feels and works, as alterations may effect on upgrade parts. I would much rather alter a cheapo trigger box and the find out that the idea didn't work as to bugger up an expensive upgrade part!
I too have looked at doing a P 14/17 but the step in the stock may well effect where the mag fits........needs some thinking about.
Andy
The outer barrel does seem to be the only thing that you cannot buy separately, but personally I'd rather have a gun working really well then make a historical body rather than vice versa.
I did for a No4(T) a few years back that was a pain to disassemble each time.
Currently torn between the P14/P17 and the MAS-36, but I want to get a decent build rifle first.
It does seem that for £56 a VSR clone from Taiwangun will be pretty good, especially with a replacement hop unit
I don't suppose it matters which way round you do things, whatever works best for you, I try to build mine so that they can come apart with ease, the Carcano for instance is six slot screws, 3 hex type screw/ bolts and the things is pieces, take under five minutes. Even if I have to deviate from originality to account for this, I do like ease of access for repair/ alterations.
I only upgrade parts if I think they need them, the cylinder is a definite yes, as the original piece of junk doesn't last long, and don't forget that for these games 350fps or under is a lot less strain on other parts. I also do the trigger sears, as just in case I want to power up, it's just a spring change. As for the hop unit if they're working OK, I leave them in, if they are total poop from the outset then I will put in either air soft pro or action army hop unit, not cheap, but you know they're going to be good pieces of kit.
The P14/17 make might well benefit from using a Well mb4404.
That's the second rifle down, with the mag in the right place! A vsr 10 is the next one down.
I bought Well mb03's from Taiwangun pl, haven't checked, but I think they were cheaper, same quality of rifle. I will be making some charge handles next month I expect.
Andy
just started my build after selling my original some years ago but thought as Rifles game is coming need to have one 
Did you manage to make some charging handles?
I have cut some steel and gathered pieces, not actuallly weld anything yet, but now I have a dboys handle to copy for size, will start on them.
Andy
Started on 3 kar charge handles today, hopefully finish them by tomorrow, will show photos when done!
Andy
Started on 3 kar charge handles today, hopefully finish them by tomorrow, will show photos when done!
Andy
Lookforward to it 
Got most of the job done, rain stopped play at one time, so will have to finish pieces during the week.....maybe.
Cut drilled, threaded, shaped and welded, started to finish one off, but still needs a touch of weld to fill in. The last tiniest bits, Inuse a bit of filler, opoxy glues, or something like jb weld to get a good finish, seeing as this is a " using part" I try to get the wear pattern to show real metal.
Andy
The k98 charge handle, has a square section from the bolt, 11mm squared, the arm, is thicker to the square, at 10 mm. tapers out to 9 mm, the ball is 19 mm.
The collar I use, has a wider section so the square won't come out as much, I use 8 mm bar for arm, and the made up ball end comes out approx, 18mm. Near enough for me, can always use filler to get exact size, if wanted.
Andy
The k98 charge handle, has a square section from the bolt, 11mm squared, the arm, is thicker to the square, at 10 mm. tapers out to 9 mm, the ball is 19 mm.
The collar I use, has a wider section so the square won't come out as much, I use 8 mm bar for arm, and the made up ball end comes out approx, 18mm. Near enough for me, can always use filler to get exact size, if wanted.
Andy
Well looks D*mm good to me as my old dad used to say a Blind man would love to see it 
If you are selling one please put me down for one trying to get all sorted for the rifles game.
PM me a postal address, Gordon. I'll put one in the post when finished.
Andy
How will you make the recesses for the bolt retaining pins?
(ie the bits that stop the bolt sliding out before you raise the bolt handle)
The receiver tube has a cut out that the original handle slides into, so that stops the bolt/cylinder from sliding out, also the spring tension of the main spring keeps it in place, this is the trouble with putting weaker springs in, not enough tension sometimes.
I had to put a little stop on the smle kit rifle, as the charge handle supplied locates in a different position. For the end cap spring and detent ball, I just run a drill into the ring part of the handle just enough to hold.
The other slotted part I just ignore, and remove the safety lock parts from the trigger box, if they cause any problems.
Andy
