HFC M10 revolver.
Friends meet to part - love laughs at faith;
True foes, once met, are joined 'til death!
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
M1 Garand Marushin
5 CLip Magazine
YESSSSSSSSS 
dodgy D-boys gas K98 from rsov 
dodgy D-boys gas K98 from rsov
you was warned! Good luck with your project! 
have had around 10+ orders from them over the last 2 years, first time theres been a problem
37 pattern bd blouse from costafortune, lovelly fit really pleased.
3 thompson gearboxes ,3 ak hop kits ,3 systema barrel seal rubbers,all due to become sterlings (pratchets)in the near future.
armoury
m1a1 Thompson,sten mk2,mp40,stg44,sterling,mk2 bren gun,lee Enfield no4 mk1,Mauser Kar98, Walther ppk,smith and Weston m10 and Mauser m712
Give me a big enough hammer and a place to stand and I could fix the world.
i'll kill a man in a fair fight or if i think he's going to start a fair fight or over a woman or.......
a problem shared is a problem halved ,but an advantage shared is no advantage at all
if a job's not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well
original M1936 US pistol belt and Original 5 cell 20rnd Thompson mag pouch
Original Bayonet (M1 Garand) Short Version
Oiginal Belt M1 Garand
10x Pack BB 8mm 0,35gr Marushin 
1938 Contax II - needs a bit of a clean but otherwise sweet!
Very nice! Been looking at a few period cameras myself. Where do you get the film developed these days?
If you want to shoot monochrome then Kodak T400CN or Ilford XP2 or Fuji 400CN are the easiest options as they can be process at any 1 hour photo lab. Prints produced from these labs will have a bit of a tint to them (could be anywhere from blueish to brownish - most look OK!) but I don't bother with prints and ask for 'process only' and scan the negatives myself. Or you could ask them to process and scan to CD to save you the faff of scanning. The CD scans will show the colour tint that the prints might have shown but no problem, just use your image editing program to desaturate and remove the colour entirely. Then manipulate the image as you desire.
If you want colour then any normal colour negative film will be fine, pop them into your local 1hr lab as per above.
Hidakaya O-ring Set for Tanaka 98K x 2
1938 Contax II - needs a bit of a clean but otherwise sweet!
Sweeeeet!
If you want colour then any normal colour negative film will be fine, pop them into your local 1hr lab as per above.
I'd be inclined to shoot in colour and post-process it to mono.
I wouldn't - colour to mono conversion is an art to do well. If you want b&w photos and you are going to the trouble of shooting with period kit then you might as well do it properly and shoot with b&w film and have done with it, its no more inconvenient.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if I could just use the standard high street photo processing with b&w film cause it's usually just colour, but if a slight tint is the only side effect then I can live with that. I may try some next game day that's not snowed off as I think I have some Ilford film somewhere!
Yes, with the three b&w film types I gave - they are processed in standard colour film chemistry/machines in exactly the same way that colour films are. Technically they have dye images on film just as colour film, but in monochrome. A positive side effect is that they are very exposure tolerant and under/over exposure can still give excellent images - handy when you are using 70 year old cameras which may not be particularly consistent. The slight colour cast is just a consequence of the commercial difficulty in producing 100% neutral grey images on colour paper, the negatives themselves don't have a colour cast and when printed on proper silver-based B&w paper (or scanned) behave in exactly the same way silver image b&w films do.
You totally sold me on this old camera lark . I've got a 1940/50s Zuess Ikonta on the way courtesy of my old fella who bought it from new and was still using it in the late 70's .
I'll confess I have absolutely no idea how to use it , or even if the 120 film is still available/ processable .
Er...I hoping my mate the professional photographer might be interested enough to help 
120 film is certainly available and processable but not on the high street. The format was introduced by Kodak in 1901 for their Brownie no 2 and remains unchanged in spec to this day (although much improved technically) and is the film choice of professionals outside of newspapers/sports. For b&w go for the same chromogenic film types I posted earlier and ask the lab for process and scan to CD (I wouldn't bother with prints myself). As I only process transparencies these days I use http://www.peak-imaging.com/htmls/process_and_scan_to_cd.htm to process colour/b&w films - they have a quick postal service.
Cheers for that ! And er ....fancy checking it over one day and showing me which knobs to twiddle ?
