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[Sticky] Tanaka K98 BGS hop set fitted!

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JD7
 JD7
(@jd7)
Illustrious Member

It IS a pain to bed the hop in properly but it's most definitely worth it

Consistency of bb flight at 'gulch' proved to be excellent :whistle:

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Posted : 08/06/2009 11:11 am




Chomley-Warner
(@admin-infinity)
Illustrious Member Admin

I can't wait to try out my rifle now. After damaging a hop rubber in the installation process I threw all the bits in a box in frustration but Keith came to my rescue and put it all back together (not before damaging another rubber!) so it will be back in my hands at Ariel. Hope all the expense and angst is worth it. (and judging by Del's ferformance at Gulch it will be!)

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Posted : 08/06/2009 11:21 am




(@bedsnherts)
Famed Member

It IS a pain to bed the hop in properly but it's most definitely worth it

Consistency of bb flight at 'gulch' proved to be excellent :whistle:

What weight / gas combo did you use in the end?

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Posted : 08/06/2009 11:28 am




JD7
 JD7
(@jd7)
Illustrious Member

It IS a pain to bed the hop in properly but it's most definitely worth it

Consistency of bb flight at 'gulch' proved to be excellent :whistle:

What weight / gas combo did you use in the end?

I am using Blaster Devils 0.40g at the moment and either Predator ULTRA or Green gas.

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Posted : 08/06/2009 11:45 am




 stof
(@stof)
Prominent Member

I am ever so slightly baffled by the fact that my hop rubber ( blue rubber tube) isn't a tube ,in that it has a closed end,the thicker end . Is this normal with these ? and if it is how do you cut it out / remove it evenly ?

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Posted : 12/06/2009 2:34 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

The thicker end is where the bb loads in and the nozzle pushes in. You should find that once it's all together and in the gun, that the nozzle will widen the gap as you close the bolt. The hop to nozzle seal is very tight at first.



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 12/06/2009 3:34 pm




 stof
(@stof)
Prominent Member

Thanks for that,I would have punched a hole in the end,this one hasn't actually got a hole and I was worried that if I left it until I put a shot up it ,it might tear the hop rubber. I may put a very small hole in the end yet I'll hae to check how much resistance there is.

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Posted : 12/06/2009 4:04 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

It's also worth putting some silicone grease on the nozzle and in the rubber, just to ease the bedding in process. Keep lubing it until it's a bit easier to cycle. I know it buggers up your accuracy but it's preferable to a torn hop rubber.

Note to self, next time I order BGS hops for people, order several spare hop rubbers as well!



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 12/06/2009 5:10 pm




Chomley-Warner
(@admin-infinity)
Illustrious Member Admin

:oops: :whistle:

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Posted : 12/06/2009 5:27 pm




 stof
(@stof)
Prominent Member

Well ,it did what I expected,I cut a 3 mm hole in the end of the hop rubber with a leather punch but it still split ,so I suspect I will need a new hop rubber fairly soon .But even so and presuming it isn't sealing as well as it could I was a bit shocked at the power increase.Using a mag that had green gas in it that hadn't been drained down with .20's it is punching holes in a dog food can at 10 metres,at 6 metres they went straight through both sides !

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Posted : 13/06/2009 2:51 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

The BGS can give a significant power increase and it sounds like yours is sealing pretty well to me. But, the biggest improvement is in consistency. If you chrono a k98 with the standard hop, you'll see a variance of up to 40fps between shots. With a BGS fitted, the variance drops to less than 10fps!

I'll definitely be ordering some more hop rubbers but I need a few orders for hop units as well to make it economically viable.



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 13/06/2009 4:02 pm




 stof
(@stof)
Prominent Member

No probs, I have enough guns to fall back on if it fails :lol: appreciate it if you could order a spare hp rubber for me whenever you put your next order in.Hope there aren't too many of these around ,I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of it. :good:

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Posted : 13/06/2009 5:10 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

Hope there aren't too many of these around ,I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of it. :good:

I know what you mean. It all depends on the gas used to be fair. I'd like to think most are sensible enough not to use green gas in the summer, as that's how injuries occur and people fall out! I found that 134a is more than adequate to give 450-490 ish when the temeperature is over 20C. Green gas should really be kept until the temperatures drop to below 10c, especially in a gun with a BGS fitted.



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 13/06/2009 6:59 pm




Seanebabes
(@seanebabes)
Reputable Member

OK, I've read the guide, I understand most of it and I suspect the rest will make sense once I get into doing this, but...
I have one rather fundamental question. How do I remove the barrel from the rifle? :oops:




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Posted : 15/10/2009 11:34 am




Seanebabes
(@seanebabes)
Reputable Member

Hello again.
OK, still haven't managed to get barrel out of rifle. I intend to try again this weekend as I at last have some spare time.
I think the problem is I get some of the rifle appart, but I don't know how to remove part 65 from part 21 which seems to be essential for removing barrel and hop unit from gun.
Help please!




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Posted : 28/10/2009 12:01 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

Alas, I don't have a Tanaka any more, otherwise, I'd do a pictorial guide for you. Looking at the parts diagram, you have to remove the bolt (part 19) from under the rear sight and the trigger housing bolt (part 71) to release the hop housing from the receiver. The barrel and hop assemble slides out towards the rear of the weapon. You have to remove the outer barrel as well. It's only held by a grub screw.



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 28/10/2009 12:25 pm




Seanebabes
(@seanebabes)
Reputable Member

Does the replacement part 62 needs cutting back? Mine seems to be twice the length it should be to fit. If not why does it seem to be twice as long as it needs to be, which incidentally stops me returning the hop unit to gun. Almost there though. Last bit of info needed please. :good:
Other than that I think I have cracked it and am on my way to be a bona fide expert of the Tanaka. Nice guide.




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Posted : 31/10/2009 7:01 pm




Graeme
(@graeme)
Estimable Member

Bit late to the party here....any of these still available?

ÏŸÏŸ

My armoury;
Tanaka Kar98(1942 woodwork and parts), M1 Garand AEG(1940's woodwork and metalwork), MG34, SVT40, Mosin Nagant M44, MP40, PPSH41, Luger and PPK.

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Posted : 23/03/2010 7:20 pm




Sgt.Heide
(@sgt-heide)
Illustrious Member

Bit late to the party here....any of these still available?

Not at the moment, I don't get them for "stock". However, I will put you on the "interested" list if you want?



When I want your opinion - I'll tell you what it is!

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Topic starter Posted : 23/03/2010 7:31 pm




Graeme
(@graeme)
Estimable Member

Please.

I had a BGS for my M700, while it was an improvement, it wasnt great like my VSR. but I found there are modifications that can be made to increase consistency further more. I may have a look at my M700 unit and see if i can bodge something, but consider me interested ;)

No need for spare rubbers though, got some already!

ÏŸÏŸ

My armoury;
Tanaka Kar98(1942 woodwork and parts), M1 Garand AEG(1940's woodwork and metalwork), MG34, SVT40, Mosin Nagant M44, MP40, PPSH41, Luger and PPK.

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Posted : 23/03/2010 7:52 pm




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